Prefer rim brakes? No problem! 12-speed Di2 works with rim brakes too, but not wirelessly - wired shifting only. Again, I prefer having too much wire over having too little. The excess wire will be hidden away in the down tube and seat tube, and the performance is the same as that of a shorter wire. Buy the components

Also, if you have a synchro-shift enabled bike, pressing the button twice will let you switch shift modes. Type 1 Port Di2 has a 6mm hole to allow a Di2 cable to pass through. It will require a 6mm Di2 bung. As with the rest of the groupset, the alloy used here is heavier than on the more premium groupsets.The second method of connecting wired shift levers involves a four-port junction, the EW-JC304. This is also how you’d wire up Ultegra and Dura-Ace wireless shifters. Getting the right length Di2 wire is relatively straightforward. You decide where your junctions (if any) and battery go and then measure or estimate the required wire lengths from those points.

These can be cheaper than buying all components separately… but there’s no guarantee. Quite often it’s worth shopping around and looking for discounts. Wed Mar 27, 2019 5:54 pmThat said, other than the new handle bar and bar end junction box what other Di2 components would I need? There is a lot of Di2 information out there, but it’s all very fragmented. This guide is meant to help you get started. Some things I think every Di2 owner should know are:Squealing in wet conditions isn’t overly common, but contaminants (such as oil from a dirty road surface) will still cause some noise. You can then use the up and down rear mech shift levers to micro-adjust the position of your derailleur as you spin the cranks. Once you’ve got your rear mech running sweetly, press the junction box/controller button again to exit adjustment mode. Awesome, thanks the the recommendation. I've looked into the D-Fly a bit before and it's certainly been on my radar. Thanks for the info on the length of the Di2 wire. If I have to get all up in the BB area that may get beyond my pay grade/don't have the tools to do it. Thanks again! Shimano’s E-Tube Project app connects to the system just like the Dura-Ace and Ultegra Di2 groupsets, offering indexing and limit setting functionality, and more.

To get a better picture of the sizes you can take a piece of string and use that to see how the different lengths measure up to your handlebars. You connect the Y-connector wire to the rest of the system using either the inline 2-port junction or wireless unit. This means there’s no cable routing to worry about from the shifters to the derailleur and battery system. The incidence of this is noticeably reduced versus the previous 105 R7020 calipers, but still not dialled out completely.Shift mode 2 (S2) - Red and green LEDs flash three times. By default this is full-synchro and this automatically shifts the front derailleur as you shift the rear derailleur. the clearance is less than 2mm on the radius. I'm guessing you have a steel BB shell; I don't think it would hurt to make a shallow groove in the lower part of the shell (after all some are slotted), but Like the sibling groupsets, the brains of the system live in the rear derailleur, so there’s no junction box in the mix either.